Great Things Happen When We Are Together

picnic at Casa de Campo

It wasn’t until sophomore year that I became friends, or in some cases even met, some of my closest friends at Yale. Cici Wang, my beloved suitemate, is one of them. We have shared some incredible memories together at Yale—6 hour baking sprees during snowstorm Nemo, dumpling and arepa nights, scrambling to finish comp sci p-sets, tea parties, late night girl talk—and I am confident that there are many more to come when we both get back to Yale in the Spring. But for right now, we are each abroad and have been separated from the Yale bubble since the spring; Cici is spending her semester in Paris following a summer in Beijing. However, our adventures are in no way limited to Yale.

Cici visited Madrid last weekend and we definitely made the most of our short time together. It is incredible, I have been in Madrid for nearly 3 months now, yet when Cici and I were together, we explored Madrid in a new way and went to things I still had yet to see. This city and our friendship never cease to amaze me.

Madrid’s monthly farmer’s market <<Día del mercado>>, which I have never been able to go to, was the Saturday that Cici, my perfect foodie companion, was in town. The market, located next to Casa de Campo park, is filled with local vendors—ranging from fresh produce, to baked goods, to cured fishes, to wines, to chocolates, to olive oil—all located in Madrid. There seemed to be infinite samples of cheeses, breads, wines, and oils. This month advertised a guest vendor there this month: honey from a local beekeeper. It was the perfect compliment to the already darling market and completed the display of Madrid’s freshest products. We followed our farmer’s market adventure with a stroll through the park and a small picnic by the lake to enjoy the sunny weather.

miel del mercado 

Cici and I then decided to explore Madrid’s cathedral, which is located right in front of the royal palace. Although I have been to nearly every cathedral in the towns surrounding Madrid and everywhere I have visited in Spain, I had not actually seen Madrid’s. The cathedral is a huge building, which, unlike all other Spanish cathedrals, is decorated with modern architecture and art inside. To top it off, an organ concert began as we were inside.

On our way to visit Reina Sofia so Cici could see Guernica, we stumbled upon a market in Plaza Mayor. We investigated what it was and found out it was a ham market that was there for the week. There were ~12 different Iberian ham vendors, each thinly slicing and serving ham off of cured legs. So, we got a plate of, supposedly, the best Iberian ham in Spain.

madrid cathedral 

Cici and I in front of Palacio Real

Jamón! 

As we started walking again, we passed a clothing shop with a sign outside that everything was €1. Ends up it was a thrift shop, Spain’s version of goodwill, having a 1-day only sale. Cici found some incredible deals and we both enjoyed some exciting, girly spontaneity. After we visited the Reina Sofia, we were both in need of some dinner. After some unsuccessful wandering, I eventually to Cici to a restaurant I knew was good, but as soon as we got there, we were told that there were no available tables if we didn’t have a reservation. However, the manager made an exception for us and set us up outside, which is only supposed to be for drinks, and sent a waiter out to serve us. Cici and I are together and all of the sudden, regardless of the fact that we are in relaxed Europe, we experienced some of the best customer service. Not to mention the best salmorejo.

The following morning, and Cici’s final day, we were on the way to Retiro Park when I decided that we should make a detour and visit El Rastro, Madrid’s acclaimed flea market that sprawls across the city center every Sunday morning. We spent over 3 hours there sifting though antiques, clothes, and jewelry. I made friends with a few little old men at the antique shops, one of which gave me an old Spanish stamp as a present when I asked the price. Definitely a successful Rastro visit.

We tried yet again to make it to Retiro, but were averted by Madrid’s Ayuntamiento (city hall), one of the city’s most beautiful and grand buildings from the outside. As Cici was taking a picture, on a whim I said that we should go inside. I have passed this building dozens of times, never stepping foot inside, but decided we should at that moment. Sure enough, there were free art exhibits inside. Yet another successful find.

Ayuntamiento

inside el Ayunatmiento

statua de Alfonso XII por la noche

We ended our time together the best way we both know how: a delicious meal. We went to a restaurant, Ginger, that I had heard about but had yet to visit. Cici ordered a grilled salmon and zucchini dish and I got ahi tuna with a chutney glaze. I think this was the first time I have eaten tuna since the States, so I was elated. And of course, what would a trip to Madrid be with chocolate and churros to follow the meal?

churros con chocolate 

the crystal palace at night (Retiro)

ahi tuna

salmon and zucchini...and cici!

Cici’s visit was such a wonderful time filled with spontaneity and adventure. Yet, everything ended up working out better than we could have ever planned.

I think it is safe to say: good things happen when we are together. 

Close Calls

My lovely suitemate, Cici Wang, came to visit me last weekend. She got into Madrid Thursday afternoon and we had planned spend Friday in Valencia. We bought tickets for a 1am bus Thursday night, Halloween night, so that we would arrive in Valencia first thing in the morning.

At 12:15am, 45 minutes before our bus, we decided to head over to the bus station. We had to take one metro 15 minutes and then switch lines and go one stop. No problem.  We reached the platform just as the doors to our train were about to close. But, the car was completely packed full of dressed-up people going out to celebrate Halloween, so we realized we wouldn’t make it one and let the train pass. There were about 50 people with us waiting at the platform, too, who also decided not to push their way onto the train, so we were not worried. However, when we looked up at the timer we saw there was 16 minutes until the next train…all of the sudden our 45-minute buffer didn’t seem so forgiving.

At 12:31am, after waiting for 16 minutes, we finally caught our first metro, only to realize we were completely packed into the car. Everyone around us was screaming, drunkenly chanting, banging on the walls of the metro, and holding doors open at each stop. The already slow metro was now forced to go even slower.

At 12:47am we reached our connecting stop and ran to catch the other line. We got to the platform at 12:49, but the sign did not say how much time until the next train. I asked an elderly woman that was also waiting—why was an elderly woman out at 1am you may ask, because this is Spain—and she told me that it was at least 12-15 minutes. Here we were: 11 minutes until our bus, 1 stop away, and yet no way of catching a metro in time. So we ran out of the station to catch a taxi, only to end up in a side street with no cars around at all. After making a quick turn, we found a street with 3 cars, 2 of which were taxis: 1 was occupied, the other was free. We jumped on the taxi and, 9 euros later, made it to the bus.

12:57am. On the bus. 3 minutes to spare.

Despite the stressful start, pumping endless adrenaline through our bloodstream, our trip to Valencia could not have been any better. We saw beautiful cathedrals and basilicas, drank horchata from a horchateria that has been around for 2 centuries, saw the famous bull-ring, and explored Valencia’s modern-architecture that adorns its science and oceanography museums. We ended the last half of our day enjoying Valencia’s shoreline and gorgeous beaches: powdered sand that goes on for miles and lines stunning blue water. And, of course, a Valencian visit would not be complete without a paella lunch: heavily spiced rabbit and chicken paella. It was an incredibly satisfying meal and almost, but not quite, as good as my daddy’s.

Cici and I in front of the cathedral and basilica bright and early, while the square was still empty

Cici at the entrance of the grand cathedral

pumpkin buñuelos

oldest horchateria in Valencia

Ayuntamiento

New bullfighter!

Berkele(y)ites all the way!

giant sand castle!!

Cici and the mediterranean

the market

Welcome, Baby Gregory!

My adorable baby nephew, Gregory Wei-Ming, was born last Friday, October 18 at 6:53am with a weight of 6 lb 15 oz and a height of 19 inches long. Wei (蔚) means "aspiring to greatness", and Ming (明) means "clarity, understanding, brightness". Mark 10:43 reads "But whoever would be great among you must be your servant."

From the pictures, skypes and videos I have seen of Gregory, he is one of the calmest and most beautiful babies I have ever seen, all bias aside. I am so so happy for the brother, Greg, and sister-in-law, Joann. I have no doubt whatsoever that they are making incredible, God-loving parents. I am praying for Gregory as he grows and for the wisdom and patience that comes in raising a child. Congratulations to the both of you. 

The most beautiful baby yet:

I am very sad and sorry that I cannot be there during these first couple of months, but I look forward to meeting you in December, baby Gregory, and babysitting you every opportunity I get (and that your lovely parents allow!). 

Con cariño,
Tia Megan 

Glen is here!!!

I guess more appropriately, Glen was here, but that's just too depressing.

Glen came to visit me during his fall break (plus some) and was here for a total of 8 days. He toured Spain before his trip to China 2 summers ago, so we were able to do some less-touristy things this time around. Our week together was filled with lots of activities and plans, but below are some of the numerous highlights of our time together.

Glen's first stop after getting in from the airport was to meet my host family. We had lunch with my host-family (Glen had fresh figs for the first time! yum!!) and then I showed him around my neighborhood, Malasaña, a bit. We then walked around central Madrid, stopped by a terrace café, and made a quick pass through Plaza de España before he headed home for the night.

Fábrica Maravillas: microbrewery in Malasaña 

Plaza de España at night 

Sunday morning we went to Casa de Campo, the largest park in Madrid which stretches across the west coast of the city. We took a cable car from one side to the other and were able to see a bit of Madrid and the huge park from above. It was a great way to see a different, much more relaxing, part of Madrid.

El teleférico 

Casa de Campo

chocolate con churros 

On Monday after class, I came back and met Glen in Madrid. He had a picnic ready for us to take to Retiro and enjoy the lovely sunny weather (it ended up being the only non-rainy day in Madrid that week, so it was perfect!) Retiro is a very special place to me, so after our picnic I got to show Glen all of the different treasures the park has to offer (rose gardens, mazes, crystal palace, fountains, monuments, art exhibits, etc). Over the course of the week will filled some of our extra time with stops to a few of the big museums: Reina Sofia, El Prado, y Caixa Forum. Yes, I know I said we were being less touristy, but sometimes a bit of tourism is worth it.

picnic in Retiro 

Retiro

Tuesday was our day trip to Alcalá and our tapa feast. I met Glen in the city again Wednesday afternoon after my classes and we decided to go out for paella for lunch. I had researched restaurants before he got here and found "El Caldero" had excellent reviews, so we checked it out. It was absolutely incredible: amazing service, delicious paella, and a great atmosphere. We got a paella, paella abanda,that was served with mariscos and fish on the side and cooked in the juice. It was the best meal we ate out the entire trip. After our paella lunch, we walked around Madrid's botanic garden to try to digest a bit. In all honesty, the gardens were quite underwhelming and a lot of the areas were bare. But, the parts that were lush were decorated with beautiful vegetation, and either way it was a relaxing visit.

Paella abanda at "El Caldero"

Botanic Gardens 

On Thursday I took Glen to one of my favorite cafés in Malasaña for breakfast/coffee: Bicicleta. I had an art history exam that afternoon, so I studied a bit and then we headed to campus and Glen finally got to see where I have been studying. After the exam, we took the train back to Madrid and went to a tapas event that one of the barrios, Lavapies, was hosting: Tapapies--1 euro featured tapas inspired from cuisines around the world at ~50 participating cafés. We went with a few of my friends and got to taste about 8 different tapas, ranging from Indian-inspired to Italian to classic Spanish.

We left Madrid early Friday morning for our trip to Palma de Mallorca to finish off our time in Spain together. It was the perfect tropical getaway and a relaxing, fun trip. It was a bit short, but definitely worth it.

Saying goodbye at the airport made me so much more home-sick than I had been before. We had an incredible time together and I am so so thankful he had the chance to visit. So thank you, Yale, for starting fall break last year.

Beggars can be Choosers

Glen and I took a 2-day weekend trip to the island of Mallorca off the east coast of Spain. We ran away from a chilly and dreary Madrid and landed in a tropical island with 80^OF sunshine. We spent our time wandering through the winding streets of Palma (the main city in Mallorca), touring La Catedral de La Seu—which was constructed from 1229-1601 and restored in 1901 under Antoni Gaudí—tasting local cuisine, and soaking up the sunshine.

 

La Catedral de La Seu

Glen and I on Platja Palicana 

On our last day in Palma, just before heading back to the airport, we decided to check out Palma’s market, Mercat de Santa Catalina. The market is similar to a smaller version of Barcelona’s Boquería: various fresh fruit and veggies stands interweaved with bakeries, fish markets, tapas bars, and sushi restaurants. We stopped by one of the tapas stands for one euro tostada tapas and then tried a salmon, mango, avocado roll from one of the sushi areas, the sushi was incredibly fresh and innovative, definitely worth the stop! Still, the highlight of this island get-away was yet to come. 

The weather was beautiful and we had a bit of time before we needed to head to the airport, so we decided to buy some cheese—queso bleu d’Auvergne and queso de cabra—and fresh bread from two other stands in the market. We moved to a park nearby and finished our lunch with a mallorcan picnic. We found a nice bench in the center of the park in front of a fountain and began our cheese and bread. As we were eating, a homeless man came over to ask for money, we thought. But, instead of asking for money, he said hello and noticed our picnic. He asked if he could have some bread, so Glen broke off a piece to give to him. Then, he noticed our cheese and asked, “Is that blue cheese or goat? Can I have some blue cheese, too?” Surprised, and quite amused by his preferences, he got some blue cheese to go with his bread, too.

Apparently, beggars can be choosers. 

Tapas. Tapas. Everywhere.

 My amazing boyfriend, Glen, came to visit last week. He arrived Saturday morning and left yesterday morning—the best 8 days I have had in Europe since my parents came to visit.

Glen meets Miguel de Cervantes

On my Tuesday off, we decided to take a short day trip to Alcalá de Henares, a small pueblo 35 minutes outside of the center of Madrid. Alcalá is the birthplace of Cervantes; Glen and I started off our visit to one of the Cervantes-themed museums and followed up with a visit of his original birth-house. We then toured a 17^th century playhouse, which, to each of our surprises, was extremely interesting and worth the tour: the building is built and structured as a square, but the seats and stage are built in a circle. Despite minor restoration and upkeep, the playhouse still boasts its original design.

barrels!

However, apart from the historic sites in this UNESCO World Heritage site, Alcalá’s tapa-culture was a large influence in Glen and my decision to visit the town. Most towns in Spain offer tapas, instead of bread, when you sit down and order a drink. Unfortunately, big cities like Barcelona and Madrid do not follow this rule; however, Alcalá, being a tiny pueblo, does indeed! The tapas at each restaurant vary and can either be the daily tapa of the house or there will be a menu of a few classic tapas from which you can choose. Our desire to café hop was further encouraged by the weather: Tuesday was the second day I had seen rain in dry Madrid since I had arrived, and the rain was a non-stop drizzle, so the idea of moving from shelter to shelter was quite enticing.

Our first stop was Gringo Viejo (c/ Ramon y Cajal, 8). The café was tucked away in a side street and clearly a local site. They had a huge awning outside, so we were able to sit on the patio and still be protected from the rain. For our tapas, we were served two pieces of garlic and oil marinated chorizo with roasted potatoes and chips. The tapa was small, but the two bites we did have were really delicious. The next stop, Los Balcones de Alcalá (Calle Cervantes, 2), was right off the main street in Alcalá and had a great atmosphere: a quiet café with Sinatra playing in the background. We were served to skewered tapas consisting of different hams, sausages and potatoes. The relaxed jazz environment and reminders of sleepless New York definitely made this our favorite stop.

We then made our way to La Taberna de Rusty (c/ Tinte, 1): a rustic café with wooden barrels for tables. There were ~10 different tapas for us to chose from: we ate a chicken empanada and tostadas. We then went up a side street for our next stop and found another café to hide from the rain. This place also had a list of tapas to choose from; Glen and I each, independently, chose the exact same two tapas from the 15 options: mushroom croquettas and a cheese plate. On our way out of Alcalá we decided to stop for one last tapa at a place I had read about: Indalo Tapas (c/ Libreros, 9) which was extremely underwhelming after our other four stops.

Our tapa excursion was the perfect, relaxing and fun activity for a rainy day, or any day for that matter. We left Alcalá with thanksgiving-full stomachs and only slightly damp. 

Fall, where did you go?

Madrid is temperamental. Especially its weather. One day you will be walking around and everyone will be complaining about the heat (well, almost everyone--I would never complain about gorgeous sunshine) and the next you wake up and can't throw enough layers on. A drastic change. Overnight. Getting out of bed the past few days has been extra difficult: staying in a warm bed with a comfortable comforter seems infinitely better than stepping onto the chilled tile floor and walking outside to darkness (sunrise is 8:25am). Summer left and winter [quickly] creeped in. Where did fall go?

But what do I miss most about fall? Fall flavors! I always crave pumpkin and ginger, but this years these cravings cannot be quenched. Warm pumpkin soup and roasted butternut squash. Roasted root vegetables of all varieties and caramelized onions. Pumpkin cupcakes with goat cheese frosting. Chewy pumpkin cookies with dark chocolate chips. Pumpkin patches, jack-o-lantern carving contests, apple picking (or apple-stuffing-your-mouth-to-try-them-all), berry picking, squash blossoms, Yale Farm tours, and, of course, fall leaves. You are all severely missed.

Fall, you are my favorite season--can't you just stop by for a bit?